Fendi, Gucci, Prada, Tod's , Versace and MaxMara
Not too long from now Karl Lagerfeld will pass a milestone in the Gucci cosmetic case bagway. He spent 50 years with Fendi , designing its fun and brain ready- to-wear fur .
Mr. Lagerfeld is not exactly half a century happened to look at a window. He worked for Chanel , too. And lately , it was striking his name on products with a rate do- or-die .
At least one part of his brain , by design , analog and slow in his thinking , with large excursions in the past. And that's the part I think this holds nailed so long in one place. But the other part is very alert and responsive , constantly moving to new ideas and they devour . With reason, it has been compared to a shark .
Whatever it is important blend of comfort and cable Mr. Lagerfeld continues to revive . With Fendi , Chanel more , he wants the idea of digital technology this season, he uses words such as " computer " and " hyperlink " to describe the modular design of clothing , as well as the reasons for the grid .
It is quite possible that he . No idea of what these terms mean But the language and images of train him an idea , and this is what he responded . In truth , if you want to show a better picture thinking for opening in the Fendi dresses , dresses laser cut panels , fluorescent pastel colors organza overlay , it would be sculpture by James Turrell light in the Guggenheim rotunda with their study and minimum of colors .
Mr. Lagerfeld is obviously limited by the surface and the function of a dress . It is also necessary to apply the skills Fendi , especially with fur, its visual statement about the light, pattern and color. And "light" to mean weightlessness as well .
It is this harmony achieved in the show, but you see most clearly in the Gucci bohoopening organza and those in which the grating patterns were made with fur shaved mounted on organza . Typically they have three slightly different patterns were in three solid colors so that the light can be transmitted with organza .
When checking the Turrell show , Peter Schjeldahl The New Yorker that this type of installation " overwrites a trend among contemporary artists, favored by art institutions , to loud spectacle and hysterical performance intelligent. " Well, that's Fashion incredibly clever at the moment - too many new colors and fabrics crashing on the amount of classical forms and because designers must knock out new collections every few months , not subtle traction. . You also need someone who can work as hard and as fast as Mr. Lagerfeld.
The Prada show was a great show anyway. That's what editors and buyers have come to expect from Miuccia Prada . I loved the show of his spring men in June , if only because its scary theme paradise makes me wonder if it was clever references to the novels of Michel Houellebecq .
The sight of his wife the other night was a bit stingy jerk extensions pictures on dresses that mirrored room on the walls of the Prada show in spite of the rich colors and the head . For the presentation , the company has invited four muralists and two illustrators to create works around the themes of femininity , strength and diversity. After Prada, the concept comes from an interest in the political wall art from Mexico.
In a sense , the boundless energy of the work - it was made ??with the artists working together in the room - was repeated in the clothing . But in another sense , it was as if the energy and spirit of feminine power has just been imitated in crowded designs with shapes and materials from the archives of Prada .
The models are convincing changes evokes sleeveless viscose knitted sportswear ( models wearing football socks with sandals sport). You should ventilate physics that most women can relate to strength. But when Ms. Prada was largely made ??a case for female power , it was hard to see why they included skirts and dresses with bra models cheerleaders . My guess is that she knows young women think they are cute.
At Gucci , Frida Giannini combined active lifestyle , such as jogging pants and flowing tunics beach , inspired by Art Nouveau designs by Erte . It was an interesting idea , and it helped soften the brand. But I wonder where you get to wear these clothes , with their bras and black knit tie Streaming determined, it seemed too close to the city exposed . A yacht ? A modern apartment building in Shanghai? She needed a little imagination , which I think is not a bad thing.
Today , Italy, pencil skirts neominimalist MaxMara pearl beige linen with Gucci messagematching cashmere sweater or engraved -looking jeans cut clear sound design ( the press notes alluded Robert Ryman monochrome painting ) , the air almost modest. They are not in tune with the times . Instead, they seem to have a buffer.
With so many clothing dressed on the slopes , you begin to long for a simple summer dress. Italian sports seems almost extinct. Death turned Alessandra Facchinetti , who began his career at Prada to create sportswear and accessories . She made a small start on Friday, but it was excellent. There were beautiful shirt dresses rust and pale pink cotton with pleats in the back , a relaxed pantsuit powder blue cotton, leather and distinctive casual version of death moccasin .
Donatella Versace collection was luxury populist handle a simple jump in its platforms and skyscraper reflections printed skirts and bustiers ( or silk shorts with a mesh pleat ruched back ) for TV personalities of the country. Again, this is not a bad thing. Because with all his muscular instincts Versace woman is only in response to the world .